Day 4 of 18 · Rome

Morning move. Rome by dark.

Fly from Barcelona · Leonardo Express · Trevi at night

☼ 73°F  /  57°FSunnyWear: Travel clothes + a layer. The best walking shoes, you go straight into Monti tonight.

An early flight, booked at 08:00, buys back the whole day: land before 10, train in, drop the bag, and there's a real Roman lunch and an afternoon in Monti before Trevi at night.

Watch over coffee

Three minutes before you leave, to see it before you see it, Rome in 10 minutes, a first-timer's orientation

01Morning

05:20
Out of the Room Mate Anna hotel. At BCN by 06:00, Julian's buffer.
08:00
Vueling VY6106 to Rome-Fiumicino, booked, seats 2C/2B, ~1h50 nonstop.

02Afternoon

10:15
Land FCO 09:50, cabin bags only so straight through. Leonardo Express from the airport station to Termini.
32 min, €14pp, buy at the machine. Ignore anyone offering a taxi. platform
11:00
12-minute walk (or Metro B one stop to Cavour) to Hotel Santa Prassede, booked. Drop bags.
12:00
A real lunch in Monti, then wander: Piazza della Madonna dei Monti, the vintage shops on Via del Boschetto.
14:30
Downtime at the hotel. You were up before 5, this is the moment to use it.

03Evening

19:00
Walk 8 minutes to the Trevi Fountain, it's a completely different place after dark and half the crowd.
Since Feb 2026 there is a €2 fee for the close-up basin area only (9:00-22:00, from 11:00 Mon/Fri); the piazza itself is free, and the barriers open for free access after 22:00. Tonight, view it free from the square or pay the €2 each for the front row. route
19:40
First look at the Colosseum lit up from Via dei Fori Imperiali on the way back.
21:00
First Roman dinner in Monti. See Meals.

The table

Lunch~$45
A trattoria in Monti
house pick   The early flight lands with time to spare, a real first Roman lunch instead of an airport panino.
Dinner~$60
La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali or Alle Carrette (Monti)
house pick   Both are family-run, a few streets off the Forum, and do Roman classics without a photo menu or a tout. Alle Carrette is the pizza one; La Taverna is the pasta one.
Order: Cacio e pepe or gricia, a plate of fried artichoke and zucchini flowers, and the house red by the litre.

Tickets and bookings

ItemWhenEst.LinkStatus
Leonardo Express, FCO to Termini (×2)on arrival~$32opento book
+ add this day to your calendar
Confirmations and vouchers live in Europe 2026 / Reservations & Vouchers on Google Drive, shared with the two of you. Nothing sensitive is on this page.

Before you leave the door

Insider edge

The 08:00 was the fare that was there; it trades a very early start for landing before 10 and a real afternoon in Monti instead of just an evening. Either way, you clear the airport, the train and check-in without a scramble.

House pick
Avoid this

The taxi touts inside FCO arrivals. The official white-taxi flat fare to the centre is €55; the train is €14 for two.

Julian
Backup move

Flight delay, you still make dinner (kitchens run to 23:00). Land after 22:00, skip Trevi tonight and do it at 07:00 tomorrow instead, even better.

House pick
Ideal window

Trevi is best at 07:30 and again at twilight. Tonight is the twilight version; the 07:30 visit on the 18th is before the paid window even opens, so the close-up area is free and nearly empty then.

Dr. Trace & Dr. Leticia

Look for it on the walk

  • The Trevi is fed by the Acqua Vergine, a Roman aqueduct from 19 BC still running. The backdrop is the Palazzo Poli; the water is recycled, and the ~€3,000 tossed in every day goes to a Catholic charity that runs a supermarket for the poor.
  • On Via dei Fori Imperiali at night, the Colosseum's arches glow from inside, the lower arcades once had numbered entrances, like a modern stadium, so 50,000 people could exit in minutes.

The things you'd wish you knew

Monti, your neighbourhood, was the Suburra, ancient Rome's roughest slum, where Julius Caesar grew up before it was fashionable. Now it's the one central quarter that still feels lived-in rather than staged.

Rome has ~2,500 nasoni, cast-iron street fountains shaped like a big nose. The water is cold, clean Apennine spring water. Cap the spout with your finger and it jets up to drink. Refill your bottle; never buy bottled water here.

If time, or if a deal lands

OptionAddedNote
Aperitivo crawl in Monti before dinner+$24Ai Tre Scalini, Barnum, wine + free snacks

What today runs

Estimates. Swap in the real figure as you go.

Leonardo Express, FCO to Termini (×2)$32
Lunch, a trattoria in Monti$45
Aperitivo, Monti$20
Dinner, La Taverna / Alle Carrette$60
Gelato, Fatamorgana, Monti$8
Water, supplies$10
Today, Rome$175

Flights and the places to stay are on the costs page, not counted here.

How it went

Written after the day: what you did, what you loved, what you'd skip, the photographs, a voice note or two. It fills in here and in the album.